The special touch of Don Melchor

Recently I had the most amazing opportunity to taste through the seven parcels that exist in Don Melchor's esteemed Puente Alto vineyard in Chile's Central Valley Region in upper Maipo Valley.  The guest of honor was Enrique Tirado, sole winemaker and technical director for Concha y Toro.  Enrique, a reserved yet sincere figure, spoke with us regarding the winery, its terrior and the distinctions of the seven parcels that eventually will become the blend for the 2013 vintage, release date of Fall 2016.  Shortly thereafter, he blended the parcels and we tasted the special blend that was equally approachable as the 2010 vintage that will be released next month.

The beauty of this event was the unique experience of tasting each parcel individually, followed by its final 2013 vintage blend.  The varietals spoke differently to me as a result. I had gotten to know them first as a single player, then met them together as a team.  It was truly incredible.

Seven parcels of 2013 vintage.

Parcel 1 - Cabernet Sauvignon:  22%

This had an oxidized nose upfront that was quickly muted with a bowl of cranberries/red currants, bell pepper, bitter chocolate and nutmeg.  I liked the mouth feel the most -- it lingered for a while.

Parcel 2 - Cabernet Sauvignon:  4%

Interesting nose of potpourri, black currants, tomato leaf, clove, stony and dark chocolate pieces.  Tart fruit with a menthol finish.  It opened up after sitting in its glass, an imperative deed if consumed on its own.

Parcel 3 - Cabernet Franc (25 year old vines):  13%

Us wine snobs will contest that Cabernet Franc doesn't get as much attention as it so deserves.  This is quite true with this parcel.  The structure resembled one of a black tea's tannin profile.  The black berries, brown spice and clay participants are complementary. This is a wine I'd drink on its own with some age on it.

Parcel 4 - Cabernet Sauvignon:  17%

Mint, pine tree, stony and baking spice notes cascaded along the nose and palate. However, dried roses were the surprise in the wine for me.  The structure has potential, and in a very good way.

Parcel 5 - Cabernet Sauvignon:  20%

I fell in love with the sweet nose of ripe black berries, raspberries and currants - a wine that held a lot of confidence in every element.  Wet stones and its constant overturning of notes won me over.

Parcel 6 - Cabernet Sauvignon:  17%

Deep and full wine carrying a bit of each previous wine's characteristics, definitely needs to breathe in its glass.

Parcel 7 - Cabernet Sauvignon:  7%

As if Merlot had bitten its skin, this wine was jammy and inviting.  Almost euphoric, as my notes read.  Wow.  Wish I had a glass of it now.

Blend of 2013 parcels, to be released 2016

The wine was an elegant example of each child's strong features.  The balance of the parcels blended drank beautifully.  I could only imagine its ability to please upon its release in two years.  I must make a note to purchase its offering and compare my notes.

Additional notes:

The Don Melchor wines are aged in French oak barrels (mostly new) for 12-15 mos, with an additional one year in the bottle.  The Puente Alto vineyard sits at the foot of the Andes Mountains, on the northern side of the Maipo river basin and 2100 feet (650 meters) above sea level.  There are 127 hectares in total, in addition, Enrique grows Petit Verdot, planted in 2008 and Merlot, planted in 2006.  His favorite vintages of Don Melchor are 2010, 2008 and 2001.  He has a twin brother who produces Sauvignon Blanc and red blends under his own private label.  Don Melchor means Sir Mentor, the name referencing the namesake who began the winery in 1883, Concha y Toro.

In conclusion, I really like Chilean Cabernets.  For someone who doesn't drink red often, I was surprised that I had repeated after thoughts about wanting to drink Cabernet Sauvignon for several nights.  Only problem was:  I wanted the 2008 Don Melchor and I didn't have a bottle to open.

Introducing Sacy

I prefer to look at genuineness as showing real expression, whether agreeable to those around you or not.  I believe it to be honest in a sense of accountability.  In other words, owning up to whatever you put forth.

Loire Valley is a region within France that both illuminates and surprises me every time I brush up on the diverse appellations it showcases.  The Loire river is responsible for keeping the temperatures as nature intended, a few degrees warmer based on individual macro climates along the stretch that begins on the east side from the land of Massif Central, all the way west to the Atlantic coast.  At this time you may be wondering how the word "genuineness" comes into play here, alas, it has most to do with it.  It is because I believe if there's one word that had to be reserved to forever describe the fondness I have with Loire Valley, it would be genuineness.

What I have come to appreciate most of Loire Valley is the ability to offer every type of wine category.  It has sparkling, and tons of it.  After Champagne, it produces the most sparkling wines in all of France.  It produces aromatic textured whites from Melon de Bourgogne aka Muscadet and the dominate white varietal responsible for the famed Vourvay and botrytis-like wines and finally, the notable wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé which highlight Sauvignon Blanc in its finest mineral hour.  That is only to discuss the whites of Loire Valley.  But there's also lesser known varietals...

Sacy, the white varietal indigenous to the appealing wines of Saint-Pourçain AOP is known as Tressallier in the Auvergne region of Central France, located southeast of the Central region within Loire Valley.  Oddly enough, the dominant variety title in the encépagement belongs to the international grape Chardonnay, with an option of ten percent Sauvignon Blanc.  Some have compared Tressallier/Sacy to Viognier, yet I beg to defer.  I see a resemblance in the texture and structure profile of Pinot Blanc.  I bought the Domaine Nebout Saint-Pourçain 2009 last Spring.  I remember trying it back in 2011 and I wanted to revisit its progression.  What I witnessed in its first try was a mineral focused, funky and vague apricot nose that left me stumped.  The palate was developing and it hadn't won me over, yet.  When I took my second taste I decided that it would be more enjoyable five degrees warmer.

I suspect this wine style is enjoyed on a daily basis, but I chose to wait another year before indulging the bottle below for the second time.

100 percent Tressallier 

It matured really nicely, at five years vintage.  The nose subdued on the mineral front, retaining its funky tone with a pale golden hue.  There existed soft white flowers, caramelized lemon rind, dried fruit leather of apricot flesh and subtly wet pebbles.  I was in awe and bummed at the same time because I had opened the bottle I had no more chances of buying in this vintage.

But that's what it's about.  We must live for today.  What better region to sink your teeth into than Loire Valley.  It's real, it doesn't pretend.  And it most definitely lives up to genuineness.

16 wines, 16 minutes

Last Tuesday was just one of them days.  I arrived at the Union Station about 11:45 a.m. for Gambero Rosso's 2013 Tre Bicchieri tasting and found myself the first in line.  Long story short, I realized it didn't start until 2 p.m. which limited my available time frame.  I became determined.  That is how I ended up trying 16 wines in 16 minutes.

That's power tasting.  Obviously I couldn't take notes but having worked in a Italian restaurant that boasted over 650 wines in two and a half years - all my memories of tasting Italian wines came right back to me.

MARCHE
Gioacchino Garofoli Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Podium 2010

• Garofoli is the oldest winery in Marche and one I have never tried.  I adore Verdicchio and it hails so deservingly here in this region.  Fresh fruit flavors with an elegant body content, this racy wine is the perfect answer to any season of the year.  This wine can evolve and would make a great addition to any list regardless of its menu.

EMILIA ROMAGNA

Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco di Sorbara del Fondatore 2011

Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Vigneto Enrico Cialdini 2011

• Cleto Chiarli is one of my favorite Lambrusco producers.  They represent such great value with an overabundance of flavor.  There are three strands of Lambrusco and two of them are represented here.  The first one was all about its structure while the second one had me dreaming of its aromatics.  I'd happily take either one with me on a picnic where I could lay under the tree and feed myself prosciutto - even in my lonesome.

MARCHE

Velenosi Rosso Piceno Superiore Roggio del Filare 2008

• I was Italian in my past life, but Sangiovese is not my preferred poison.  However, when you blend it in a bottle with Montepulciano, it's as if I am reunited with an old friend.  I'm talking black berries - all of them, introducing themselves one at a time as the wine lingers on my tongue.  I love the wines of Rosso Piceno because they have the ability of being rustic and playful at the same time.

PIEMONTE

Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva 2006

• It's not everyday I get the chance to drink Barolo.  In fact, it's been quite a while since I tasted one worth chatting about but having a taste of this one left me speechless.  I tried Massolino for the first time three years ago and was instantly hooked.  From the Serralunga d'Alba sub-region and made in a modern fashion, it's still one I fancy.  I'm all about the nose and the violets leaped so heavenly into my olfactory receptors that I was quite taken back.  Definitely worth aging - gotta get your hands on one for the cellar.  Actually, I should too.

TOSCANA

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto 2009

• One Wednesday night back in 2007, I was working the floor selling wine like it was nobody's business.  I was opening up stuff I'd never tasted - I was in my glory.  But nothing prepared me for the wine that would turn out to be my epiphany wine.  That wine was the 1994 Masseto.  It was still young for its time, but so amazingly delicious.  It might have been showing well because most Italian fans don't seem to agree with my viewpoint, but it changed me and I will never pass up a chance to try a new vintage.  Made with 100% Merlot grapes, I'm convinced if Miles were here, I think he'd agree it was pretty special.  And if he didn't, all the more for me.

VENETO

Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze Vigna La Rivetta 2011

• A great stand in, this Prosecco is fresh, with great effervescent and the bottle shape is unique.  Definitely a great product for its price.  After all we're talking bubbles and you could never go wrong there.

LOMBARDIA

Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat 5 Stelle 2009

• Another new producer on my list of ones I've never tried, the Valtellina Sfursat is damn tasty.  Chiavennasca is the local name for Nebbiolo in Lombardia and Sfursat is a wine made with dried grapes that has been left out to dry naturally in its air for 100 days.  It's as if you could experience the breeze that surrounds its compound as it develops its flavors.  A wine worthy of aging, it's great with braised meals of all sorts.  Sounds comforting, doesn't it?  Well, take it from me - it really is.

SARDEGNA

Agricola Punica Barrua 2009

• That's right, I didn't try the Sassicaia.  I tend to not go for coveted wines, but rather the underdog - if you want to consider the Barrua the underdog because I really don't.  The Punica winery is a joint venture between Tenuta San Guido (Bolgheri, Toscana) and Cantina di Santadi (respectable cooperative in Sardegna).  Consisting of 85 % Carignano (Carignan of France, Cariñena of Spain), 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, this is a beautiful wine.  It has class, it has structure and it's terrior driven.  Have always loved the Barrua and it's a great offering to someone who wants boldness without breaking the bank.

LIGURIA

Cantine Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino Etichetta Nera 2011

Cantine Lunae Bosoni Colli di Luni Vermentino Cavagino 2011

• I tried the wines of Lunae at last year's Tre Bicchieri and was blown away, so I knew I didn't want to miss them this year.  The Etichetta Nera is fermented in stainless steel, while 40% of Cavagino is fermented in barriques.  While both wines are very different, they both possess outstanding aromatics, dignified structure and evolving originality in their own right.  I couldn't say I like one more than the other, but I will say this:  will a little bit of age these wines will grow up gracefully.  That's pretty impressive for whites coming from the lesser known region of Liguria.

SICILIA

Planeta Chardonnay 2010

• The Planeta winery possesses six estates, each representing their own territory.  I've never had a white wine from Planeta, let alone a Chardonnay, so when I saw they were featuring one at Tre Bicchieri, I knew I had to try it.  I am a sucker for Italian Chardonnays because they flourish so uniquely from other regions of the world.  In the south, on the island of Sicily, they are over ripe, delightful and voluptuous.  5o% of this wine sees new oak and it doesn't overbear.  The fruits are exotic, the body is textured and the structure is inviting.  You can drink this wine now or keep it for a few years.  However, I recommend if you could find this wine - give it a rest and wait for the future it holds.  I guarantee it will not disappoint.

ALTO ADIGE

Cantina Produttori Colterenzio Sauvignon Prail Praedium 2011

Cantina Produttori Colterenzio Chardonnay Altkirch 2011

• This is, hands down, my favorite region of all Italy.  Not just for its diversity, but also its intricate history and neighboring influences from Germany and Austria.  The Colterenzio is a cooperative that puts forth quality before quantity.  The first wine is a single vineyard offering that is like no other.  Consisting of exotic and citrus fruits, the aromatics on this wine is a cross of springtime and heaven if it ever existed.  The Chardonnay is a cross of tropical fruits and minerality, all stainless steel fermented, its complexity stems from time on its lees.  Both are outstanding representation of northern Italy's great white potential.

ALTO ADIGE

Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer 2011

• Traminer is the name for the original vine of what most people know as Gewürztraminer.  The prefix Gewürz meaning "perfumed" lends it credit to the grape's floral and spicy aromatics.  This wine is a perfect representation of the grape.  Its muscat personality combined with ample acidity has earned "three glasses" in the Gambero Rosso wine guide 21 times to date.  That's pretty impressive for a northern white most people don't ever have the chance to indulge in.

CALABRIA

Librandi Magno Megonio 2010

• Maybe you've had Gaglioppo, like Librandi's Duca San Felice Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva DOC bottling which I sold quite often in the past.  But not many have had the opportunity to try Magliocco.  I wouldn't even know how to quite describe the grape except to say it is most definitely at home to the region of Calabria.  Fermented in stainless steel, it spends just over a year in new French oak and it's stunning.  It's a power wine whose roots can be traced back to Roman times.  Picture this:  old world Malbec marries old world Merlot with ripe black fruits and melted Swiss chocolate.  I'm also thinking a great wine to pair with cheese.  Kinda of reminds me of the sexy high school chemistry teacher whose grey hair and mustache made all the girls swoon.  Wish I could remember his name...

There you have it.  My 16 wines in 16 minutes.  I'll leave you with a picture of my epiphany wine.  Till next time...